Hatsu-Hinode Is the First Sunrise Japan Wakes Up For

Hatsu-hinode is the first sunrise of the year in Japan, watched on the morning of January 1 as a quiet prayer for good fortune, and this guide explains what it means, where people go to see it, and how a visitor can join in.

Most countries welcome the new year at midnight, with noise and light and a countdown. Japan does that too, in its own way, and then it wakes up early for a second beginning. On the morning of January 1, long before most people would normally leave the house, crowds gather on cold beaches, on hilltops, and on high observation decks. They stand in thick coats, holding warm drinks, and they wait in silence for the edge of the sun to appear above the horizon. That first light has a name, and the name is worth learning, because it carries the whole feeling of the Japanese New Year in three syllables. Hatsu-hinode is the first sunrise Japan wakes up for.

The word is simple once it is broken apart. Hatsu means first, hi means sun, and hinode means sunrise, so hatsu-hinode is the first sunrise of the year, the sunrise on the morning of January 1. It is not a sunrise like any other sunrise, at least not in the way people treat it. A normal sunrise is something you happen to see. Hatsu-hinode is something you go out to meet, on purpose, in the cold, because the first light of the year is believed to set the tone for everything that follows. The idea is stated plainly in the guide to the Japanese New Year that many travellers read first, which says that January 1 is best started by viewing hatsu-hinode, traditionally believed to be representative for the whole year that has just commenced. That single sentence explains why people set alarms, catch early trains, and stand on a freezing beach before dawn. They are not only watching a sunrise. They are watching the year begin, and they want the beginning to be good.

Sunrise over a mountain ridge and the sea as crowds watch the first light of the new year
The first sunrise of the year, watched from a hill above the sea

The first morning starts with the first sunrise of the year, called hatsu-hinode, and that line, from an article about the week of the pine, is where this story begins. The pine stays up at the gate while the New Year god is believed to be in residence, and hatsu-hinode is the moment when that visit is greeted in the open air. One custom happens at the doorway of the house, and the other happens on a beach or a mountain, and together they show how the Japanese New Year moves between the home and the wider world. Hatsu-hinode is the outdoor half of that welcome, the part where people leave the warm house and go out to meet the light.

This article follows hatsu-hinode from its meaning to its practice, through the belief behind it, the places where people gather, the shrine visit that usually follows, the way families and crowds mark the morning, and the practical notes a visitor needs if the visitor wants to be there when the sun comes up. It is a small custom, one sunrise on one morning, and it opens a wide window onto how Japan thinks about beginnings.

What hatsu-hinode means, word by word

Hatsu-hinode is written with the characters for first, sun, and rising, and it is read hatsu hi no de, the first sun coming out. The reading matters, because it tells you that the custom is about the act of watching as much as about the sun itself. People do not only speak of the sunrise as an event in the sky. They speak of watching it, of going out for it, of greeting it. The usual verbs are to see it and to worship it, with the hands put together in prayer, and the choice of verb shows the attitude. Hatsu-hinode is something you do, not only something you see.

The meaning of hatsu-hinode is tied to the New Year god, Toshigami, who is believed to visit every home at the turn of the year and bring the power of life, health, and a good harvest for the year ahead. According to legend, Toshigami appears during hatsu-hinode, and watching hatsu-hinode is a way to welcome the god and the new year together. That is the account given in a detailed guide to hatsu-hinode, which describes the morning as a greeting to the deity and a prayer for good fortune. The belief is a folk one, handed down through households rather than declared by a single shrine, and it sits comfortably beside the other customs of the season. The pine at the gate marks the house for the god, and hatsu-hinode in the east shows the god arriving in light.

There is a second layer to the meaning, and it is simpler than the theology. The sun is the highest god in Shinto, the sun goddess Amaterasu, and Japan calls itself the land of the rising sun, so a sunrise already carries weight in Japanese culture before the New Year is added to it. Hatsu-hinode is therefore not only a pretty sight. It is the most auspicious sunrise in the calendar, the one that carries the most hope, because it is the first light of a fresh year. People put their hands together when they see it, and they make a wish, and the wish is usually a plain one. Good health, a safe year, work that goes well, a family that stays together. Hatsu-hinode turns a wish into something you can watch happening, a small disc of light rising over the sea, and that makes the wish feel more real than a wish made in the dark at midnight.

The history of hatsu-hinode is less certain than its meaning, and it is worth saying so plainly. Some accounts trace the custom of watching hatsu-hinode back to the Heian period, when nobles are said to have followed it, and other accounts say that going out to a high or open place to watch it spread widely only from the Meiji period onwards, as part of the Shinto practice of greeting the New Year god. The two accounts are not necessarily in conflict. A custom can exist among a few people for centuries and then become a popular practice much later, when trains, newspapers, and public holidays make it possible for ordinary families to join in. The conservative way to put it is that the belief is old and the crowd is newer, and that hatsu-hinode as most people know it today, a public morning on a beach or a mountain, took its modern shape in the Meiji period and after. The uncertainty does not weaken the custom. It shows that hatsu-hinode has been remade by each generation that kept it, and that each generation found its own reason to get up early.

There is also a special word for the finest form of the experience. A sunrise seen from a mountain summit is sometimes called goraiko, and it is described as the ultimate form of hatsu-hinode, the first light seen from the highest place you can reach. The word carries a sense of effort rewarded. You climb in the dark, you wait in the cold, and then the sun rises below you, over a sea of cloud or over a plain still in shadow. Not everyone can climb a mountain before dawn on New Year Day, and the custom does not demand it. A beach, a hill near the city, or even a balcony with a clear view to the east can serve. What matters is the direction and the intention. You face east, you wait, and you greet the light when it comes.

Why hatsu-hinode is believed to set the tone for the year

The belief behind hatsu-hinode rests on a simple idea, that the way a year begins shapes the way it goes on. Japan Guide puts it in the plainest terms, saying that hatsu-hinode is traditionally believed to be representative for the whole year that has just commenced, and therefore the day is supposed to be full of joy and free of stress and anger, with everything clean and no work done. The logic is not scientific, and it does not pretend to be. It is a folk logic, and it is a kind one. If the first morning is calm and bright, the year has a good model to follow. If the first morning is rushed and angry, the year starts on the wrong foot. Hatsu-hinode is the practical form of that logic. You go out early, you stand quietly, and you give the year a calm and hopeful beginning.

I think there is wisdom in that logic even for people who do not share the belief behind it. A year is too long to plan in detail on its first morning, and too short to waste on a bad start. A single sunrise cannot decide whether you stay healthy or find work or keep a friendship, and no honest account of hatsu-hinode should claim that it can. What it can do is give you a moment of attention at the start of the year, a moment when you are fully awake, fully present, and facing the light with other people who want the same thing. That is a better beginning than a lie in, or a scroll through a phone, or a morning spent arguing about nothing. The custom does not promise a good year. It offers a good first hour, and it trusts you to build the rest.

The tone of the morning matters as much as the sight itself. People are asked to keep the day free of stress and anger, and watching hatsu-hinode is part of that discipline. You do not shout when the sun appears. You do not push through the crowd for a better photo. You put your hands together, you make a wish, and you let the light do the work. The quiet is part of the prayer. In a country where the New Year is the most important holiday, and where the first three days of January are treated as a complete fresh start, with old duties finished and old worries left behind at year forgetting parties, the quiet of hatsu-hinode is the first act of the new year, and it sets the register for the days that follow.

There is also a social side to the belief. Watching hatsu-hinode is rarely a solitary act. Families go together, friends meet before dawn, and strangers stand shoulder to shoulder on a beach and share the same wait. The shared wait is part of the point. A wish made alone is private, and a wish made in a crowd is communal, and hatsu-hinode gives a whole country the same wish at the same hour, for health and good fortune and a year that treats people kindly. The crowd is not a nuisance to be avoided. It is the custom working as it should, a large number of people agreeing, without a speech or a ceremony, that the year deserves a hopeful start.

Where people go to watch hatsu-hinode

The geography of hatsu-hinode is the geography of the east. The sun rises in the east, so people look for a place with a clear view to the east, a beach facing the Pacific, a hill above the city, a mountain summit, or a high observation deck. The forest of skyscrapers in the cities tends to block the view, so those who want a proper sight usually travel outside the city or climb to a higher place. The choice of place is part of the custom, and the famous places each have their own character, from a lighthouse on a cape to a shrine gate standing in the sea.

Cape Inubosaki in Choshi, in Chiba Prefecture, is one of the best known places of all. The lighthouse there stands at the eastern edge of the main island, and the cape is often described as one of the earliest places on the main islands to see the sun, if mountain peaks and remote islands are set aside. The sun rises there at around 6:46 on January 1, and the coast facing east, the port tower, and the observatory on a nearby hill all fill with people before dawn. The claim about being first should be taken with care, because the curvature of the earth and the height of the viewing point change the answer, and other capes make similar claims. What is certain is that Inubosaki is early, open to the Pacific, and crowded for a good reason, and that the sight of the sun emerging from the horizon there is described by those who have seen it as a truly divine sight.

Mount Tsukuba, in Ibaraki Prefecture, is the mountain choice near Tokyo, and it is one of the most popular places for viewing hatsu-hinode in eastern Japan. The summit can be reached by cable car and ropeway, which run from early in the morning on January 1, and hatsu-hinode from the summit comes at around 6:45, which is said to be the earliest in eastern Japan. The two peaks of the mountain, Nyotai-san at 877 metres and Nantai-san at 871 metres, both offer views over the Kanto Plain, and the shrine near the foot of the mountain is a natural place for the first shrine visit afterwards. The mountain is cold before dawn, and the observatory at the top limits numbers in the early hours, so the practical advice is the same as everywhere. Arrive early, dress warmly, and expect a crowd that has made the same decision you have.

Oarai Coast, also in Ibaraki, is the place where hatsu-hinode meets a shrine. The coast faces east, and the Kamiiso torii gate of Oarai Isosaki Shrine stands on a rock in the sea, so the morning sun rises directly above the gate, and the sight is widely photographed. The gate is said to be a place where a deity descended, which makes the shrine itself a popular spot for the first shrine visit of the year as well as for the sunrise. The sun rises at Oarai at around 6:49 on January 1, and the coast is visited by many people on that morning, so the advice given by guides is simply to arrive early. The combination of sea, gate, and sun is the reason Oarai appears on almost every list of hatsu-hinode places, and it is a good example of how the custom joins nature and shrine in a single view.

Further west, Bungo Futamigaura Bay in Saiki, in Oita Prefecture, offers a different kind of scene. Two cliffs known as the wedded rocks, or Meotoiwa, stand in the bay, joined by a sacred straw rope that is about 65 metres long and weighs around two tons, remade by local volunteers each December. The bay is celebrated as a prime place for catching hatsu-hinode, and fireworks are launched from between the two rocks in the early morning before the sun appears, with hatsu-hinode itself coming at around 7:15 on January 1. The later time is a reminder that Japan is a long country, and that hatsu-hinode arrives at different hours in different places. Tokyo sees it at around 6:51, Osaka at around 7:05, and Fukuoka at around 7:23, so a person watching in Kyushu waits more than half an hour longer than a person watching in Tokyo, and both are watching the same hatsu-hinode.

The area around Mount Fuji is the most famous of all, and it draws people who want the sacred peak in the same frame as the first light. Many gather at Arakurayama Sengen Park in the early morning, where the five storey pagoda stands with Mount Fuji behind it, and the sun rises at around 6:53 in Fujiyoshida. Oishi Park and the north shore walking trail of Lake Kawaguchiko are also open to the public, and many hotels in the area hold special events on rooftops and observation decks. The cold near Mount Fuji is serious, with January temperatures reported as high as 5.3 degrees and as low as minus 6.2 degrees, so a down jacket, gloves, a scarf, a knit hat, ear muffs, and heat packs are not luxuries. They are the difference between enjoying hatsu-hinode and enduring it. The reward is a mountain bathed in the first light, and a photograph that needs no filter, though the photograph is never quite the point.

High places in the city have their own version of the custom. Tokyo Skytree and Tokyo Tower open early on January 1, between about 5:30 and 7:30, so that visitors can view hatsu-hinode from their observatories. Reservations are first come, first served, and admission requires a special fee, so the city version of hatsu-hinode is planned further in advance than the beach version. Tokyo Tower has an extra attraction, a shrine on its main observation deck at 150 metres above ground, where a visitor can make the first shrine visit of the year without leaving the tower. The city observatory is a reminder that hatsu-hinode is not only a rural custom. It belongs to the city too, and a tower can serve as a mountain for people who live among buildings.

The list of places could go on, and that is part of the charm. Every prefecture has its own beach, hill, or tower, and every family has its own favourite spot, often the same one visited year after year. The famous places are famous for a reason, and they are crowded for a reason, but hatsu-hinode does not require a famous place. It requires a clear view to the east, a willingness to wake early, and a few minutes of patience. A small hill near home, a river bank, or a rooftop can serve just as well as a lighthouse, and the sun does not check the name of the place before it rises.

Hatsu-hinode and hatsumode, the sunrise and the shrine visit

Hatsu-hinode rarely stands alone. It is usually followed, on the same morning or in the same three days, by hatsumode, the first shrine or temple visit of the year. The two customs belong together, and they are often described together, because they are two halves of the same greeting. Hatsu-hinode is the greeting in the open air, and the shrine visit is the greeting at the sacred place. A person who has watched the sun rise and then walked to a shrine has greeted the year twice, once in nature and once in prayer, and the day feels complete in a way that either custom alone would not achieve.

The article about the week of the pine puts the sequence in order. The first morning starts with hatsu-hinode, and then comes hatsumode, the first shrine or temple visit of the year, with the most popular shrines and temples attracting several million people over the three days. The most impressive visits happen at the actual turn of the year, when the great temple bells are rung at midnight, and a family that has spent a week preparing its own house for a visiting god now walks out of that house to visit a god at a shrine. The two movements complete each other. The god comes in, and the family goes out, and the season holds both.

The practical link between the two customs is visible at the famous sunrise places. At Mount Tsukuba, the shrine near the foot of the mountain is a natural stop after the descent. At Oarai, the shrine whose gate stands in the sea is a popular place for hatsumode as well as for the sunrise. At Tokyo Tower, the shrine on the observation deck lets a visitor do both without moving. At Arakurayama Sengen Park, the shrine in the grounds makes the same pairing. The pairing is not an accident. A shrine near a good sunrise view is a shrine that understands the morning, and a sunrise near a shrine is a sunrise that already has a place to go afterwards.

The scale of hatsumode is worth noting, because it puts hatsu-hinode in context. The Meiji Shrine in Tokyo attracts several million people over the first three days of the year, and the crowds at the major shrines are among the largest gatherings in Japan. Hatsu-hinode crowds are large too, but they are spread across beaches and mountains, and they disperse as the sun rises. Hatsumode crowds gather at a single gate and move slowly through it, and they last for days. Hatsu-hinode is the quieter of the two customs, and the shrine visit is the busier one, and many families choose the quiet one first and the busy one second, or the other way round, depending on where they live and how early they are willing to rise.

There is a deeper link as well, and it runs through the word hatsu itself. The Japanese word hatsu is assigned to any activity done for the first time in the New Year. The first visit to a shrine is hatsumode, the first dream is hatsuyume, the first laugh is hatsuwarai, and the first sunrise is hatsu-hinode. The language itself treats the New Year as a series of firsts, each one a small beginning inside the larger beginning. Hatsu-hinode is the first of those firsts in the day, because it happens at dawn, before the shrine visit, before the first meal, before the first greeting of the year. To watch it is to start the series properly, with the light first and everything else after.

For a fuller account of the shrine visit itself, including which shrines draw the largest crowds and how to handle the queues, the companion piece on this site is the natural next read. Japan Meets the New Year at Hatsumode follows the same season from the shrine gate, and it pairs well with this article, because the two customs are two sides of the same morning. The link to it is in the body of this article, and the reader who has just watched the sunrise in words may want to walk to the shrine in words as well.

How families and crowds mark the morning

The morning of hatsu-hinode has a rhythm of its own, and it is different from the rhythm of an ordinary morning. People stay up late on New Year Eve, or they set an alarm for a time that feels unreasonable, and then they travel in the dark to a place they have chosen in advance. The trains that run early on January 1 are full of people in winter coats, carrying thermoses and cameras, and the atmosphere on those trains is quieter than on a normal commuter train. Nobody is going to work. Everybody is going to the same light, and the shared purpose makes strangers polite to each other in a way that a normal crowd rarely is.

Families mark the morning in their own ways. Some go together every year to the same beach, and the children who once complained about the cold grow up and bring their own children to the same spot. Some families stay at home and watch from a balcony or a window, because a grandparent cannot travel or a baby cannot be taken out in the cold, and the custom adapts to them without losing its meaning. Some people go alone, by choice, and find that the crowd on the beach is company enough. The custom is flexible, and that flexibility is part of why it survives. It does not demand a particular place or a particular company. It asks only that you be awake and facing east when the sun appears.

The moment of hatsu-hinode itself is brief, and it is worth describing, because the brevity is part of the experience. The sky starts to glow about half an hour before the sun appears, and the horizon turns from black to grey to a thin line of orange. The crowd grows quieter as the light grows stronger. Then the edge of the sun appears, a small curve of light, and people put their hands together and make a wish. The whole disc follows in a minute or two, and the sea or the plain below catches the light, and the cold suddenly feels less cold. People take photographs, and then they put their phones away, or they keep taking photographs, and both are fine. Hatsu-hinode lasts a few minutes, and the memory of it lasts the year.

Food and drink are part of the morning, though they are simple. A warm drink from a thermos, a sweet bean soup from a stall near a shrine, or a hot amazake, the sweet rice drink served at New Year, are the usual comforts. The tiered boxes of osechi ryori, the special dishes prepared in advance so that no cooking is needed during the first days, wait at home for the return, along with ozoni, the soup with rice cakes, and otoso, the sweetened rice wine. Hatsu-hinode is watched on an empty stomach or a light one, and the meal afterwards tastes better for the wait. The custom understands that hunger is part of the morning, and that the first meal of the year should be earned by an early rise.

There is also a quieter side to the crowd, and it deserves a mention. Not everyone who goes out for hatsu-hinode is celebrating. Some people are remembering someone who is no longer there, and hatsu-hinode is a moment to think of them. Some people are starting a year that they know will be hard, a year of illness or of work far from home or of a family change, and hatsu-hinode is a small piece of steadiness at the start of it. The custom does not ask why you are there. It only asks that you watch, and the watching is enough. I find that generosity moving, and I think it is the reason the custom has lasted. A tradition that only served happy people would be a thin thing. Hatsu-hinode serves anyone who is awake at dawn and willing to look east, and it does not check their reasons at the gate.

Hatsu-hinode in the age of phones and photographs

The modern version of hatsu-hinode looks different from the version of a generation ago, and the difference is mostly in the hands of the crowd. Where people once stood with their hands together and their eyes on the horizon, many now stand with a phone raised, and hatsu-hinode is watched through a screen as well as with the naked eye. The change is easy to criticise, and it is also easy to understand. A sunrise happens once a year in this form, and a photograph is a way to keep it, to send it to a parent who could not come, or to a friend overseas who has never seen a Japanese New Year. The phone is not necessarily a distraction. It can be a way of sharing the morning with people who are not there.

The sharing has a public side as well. Photographs of hatsu-hinode fill social media on the morning of January 1, from beaches and mountains and towers, and the images travel faster than the people who took them. A person in Tokyo can see the sunrise from Oarai within minutes of it happening, and a person overseas can see it before breakfast. The custom has become visible in a way it never was before, and that visibility has a cost and a benefit. The cost is that a famous place can become more crowded because a photograph made it famous, and the quiet of the morning can be broken by people who came for the photograph rather than the sunrise. The benefit is that a person who cannot travel can still share in the morning, and that the custom reaches people who would never have heard of it otherwise.

I think the honest position is in the middle. A photograph taken after the wish, with the hands put together first and the phone raised second, keeps both the prayer and the picture. A morning spent entirely behind a screen misses the point, because the point is to be present for the light, not to collect it. The best advice is simple, and it is the advice that older watchers give to younger ones without being asked. Watch hatsu-hinode first with your own eyes, make your wish, and then take the photograph. The photograph will be better for the wait, and the memory will be better too, because you will remember the cold and the quiet and the light, not only the image on your phone.

The commercial side of the modern custom is also worth noting, without exaggeration. Observation decks sell special early morning tickets, hotels near Mount Fuji offer rooftop viewing for guests, and tour companies run sunrise buses from the city to the coast. None of this is new in spirit. Shrines have always sold charms and fortunes at New Year, and shops have always sold decorations for the season. The commercial version of hatsu-hinode is the same old custom with a ticket attached, and it serves people who want a guaranteed view and a warm place to wait. The free version, a beach or a hill with no ticket, still exists alongside it, and the sun rises for both without distinction. The custom does not belong to the ticket holders. It belongs to anyone who is awake.

Practical notes for a visitor who wants to see hatsu-hinode

A visitor who wants to watch hatsu-hinode should plan the night before, because the morning itself leaves no room for improvisation. The first decision is the place, and the place should be chosen for its view to the east rather than for its fame. A famous place is a good choice if you arrive early and accept the crowd, and a quieter place is a good choice if you prefer space and silence. Either way, check the sunrise time for your location, because it varies across the country, from around 6:45 at Mount Tsukuba and around 6:46 at Cape Inubosaki, to around 6:51 in Tokyo, around 7:05 in Osaka, and around 7:23 in Fukuoka. The times shift slightly from year to year, so treat them as a guide and check a current forecast for the year you are travelling in, and arrive at least half an hour before the expected time, because the sky starts to glow well before the sun appears.

Transport is the second decision, and it needs care. Many businesses shut down from January 1 to January 3, and public transport runs on a holiday timetable, with fewer trains and buses than on a normal day. Some cable cars and ropeways run early on January 1, such as the Mount Tsukuba services from around 4:30 in the morning, and some observation decks open early with special hours, but the general rule is to check the timetable in advance and to have a backup plan. A taxi booked the night before, a hotel near the viewing place, or a walk from a nearby station are all safer than assuming a train will run at the hour you need. The worst outcome is not a cloudy sunrise. It is a missed train and a sunrise watched from a station platform, and that outcome is avoidable with a little planning.

The cold is the third decision, and it is the one visitors underestimate most often. January 1 in Japan is cold, and it is colder before dawn on a beach or a mountain than it is in the city at noon. Dress as if you are going to stand still outside for an hour, because that is what you will do. A down jacket, gloves, a scarf, a knit hat, and ear muffs are the standard advice for the Mount Fuji area, and heat packs, known as kairo, are sold in convenience stores and are worth buying the day before. Warm drinks help, and a thermos is better than a paper cup, because it stays warm while you wait. The cold is part of the custom, and the watchers who enjoy it most are the ones who prepared for it, not the ones who dressed for a photograph and then shivered through the sunrise.

The weather is the fourth factor, and it is the one you cannot control. Whether hatsu-hinode is visible depends very much on the weather, and a cloudy morning can hide the sun entirely. That is a real risk, and it should be accepted before you go. A cloudy hatsu-hinode is still a morning spent with other people who wanted to see the light, and the sky at dawn on a cloudy day has its own beauty, but it is not the sunrise you came for. Check the forecast the night before, and if the forecast is poor, consider a different place or a different plan, and remember that the custom is about the attempt as well as the sight. The people who go out every year know that some years are clear and some are not, and they go out anyway, because the going out is the custom, and the clear sky is a gift.

Etiquette is the last note, and it is simple. Stand where you do not block the view of the person behind you, keep your voice low as the sun approaches, and put your hands together for a moment when the sun appears, even if you do not share the belief behind the gesture. It is a mark of respect for the people around you, and it costs nothing. Take photographs, but do not spend the whole sunrise behind a screen. Leave the place as you found it, and take your rubbish with you. If you go on to a shrine for hatsumode, expect a queue, and expect it to move slowly, and treat the queue as part of the visit rather than an obstacle to it. The morning rewards patience, and the people who are patient enjoy it most.

For a visitor staying in Shizuoka, where this site is written, the advice is the same, with a local note. The coast of Suruga Bay faces east and south, and the mountains behind the city offer high places with a clear view, and Mount Fuji stands to the north east as a backdrop for the first light. A visitor does not need to travel to the most famous cape in the country to see hatsu-hinode well. A nearby beach, reached on foot before dawn, can serve just as well, and hatsu-hinode over the bay, with Fuji in the distance, is a sight that many residents return to year after year. The custom is national, and it is also local, and the local version is often the best one, because it is the one you can reach without a long journey in the dark.

A sunrise that asks for nothing but attention

Hatsu-hinode is a small custom, and its smallness is its strength. It asks for nothing but attention, an early alarm, a warm coat, and a few minutes facing east. It does not ask for money, or for belief, or for a particular place. It asks only that you be awake when the year begins, and that you greet the light with a wish for the year ahead. The pine at the gate, the shrine visit, the food prepared in advance, and the cleaning done before the year turns are all part of the same season, and hatsu-hinode is the moment when the season steps outside and looks at the sky. The article about matsunouchi, the week Japan keeps the pine up for its guest, describes the home half of that season, and this article describes the morning half, and the two together give a fuller picture of the Japanese New Year than either one alone.

The belief that hatsu-hinode sets the tone for the year cannot be proved, and it should not be presented as if it could. What can be said, honestly, is that a year that begins with a quiet morning, a shared wish, and a clear view of the light has begun well, and that a person who starts the year in that way has given themselves a better chance of carrying the calm of that morning into the months that follow. Hatsu-hinode does not decide the year. The person who watches it decides, by the attention they pay and the wishes they make, and hatsu-hinode is the occasion for that decision, not the cause of it.

So the next time January 1 approaches, and the question comes of what to do with the first morning, the answer that Japan gives is a simple one. Wake early, dress warmly, go to a place with a clear view to the east, and watch hatsu-hinode. Put your hands together when the sun appears, make a wish for the year, and then walk to a shrine, or go home to a warm meal, or simply stand for a while longer and watch the light spread over the sea. The year will go on from there, with its work and its worries and its joys, and hatsu-hinode will be behind you, a small bright memory at the start of it. That is enough. A year that begins with light is a year that has been greeted properly, and hatsu-hinode is the name of that greeting.